SEARAILS diesel engine shells fit existing GP-series powered chassis.They have full surface detail, including vent and fan grills, through holes in windows and exhausts, MARS lenses, and pre-drilled holes in Pilot Plow coupler pockets for body mounting couplers. SEARAILS ALCO and Baldwin engine shells fit like a glove to any Z scale GP B-B powered chassis and arrive in translucent acrylic produced using the Stereo Lithographic method (SLA). Their walls maintain a minimum 0.0325” thickness providing a strong and durable model, with a surface easy-to-prime, paint, and decal. It weighs approximately 0.3 ounces or 8 gms. It may be machined.
Etched stainless railings and other details available NOW! (GO TO DETAILS & PARTS PAGE)
INTERNATIONAL PURCHASES REQUIRE ADDITIONAL SHIPPING COSTS.
1. STANDARD MAIL SHIPMENT PURCHASE IS AVAILABLE. 2. EXPRESS SHIPPING IS ALSO AVAILABLE.
ALL INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING INCLUDES REPLACEMENT INSURANCE.
DAMAGED GOODS WILL BE REPLACED AFTER THE CUSTOMER INITIATES THE INSURANCE CLAIM (KEEP ORIGINAL PACKAGING, ALL LABELS, AND SHIPPING CONTAINER)
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RF-16 A&B BALDWIN "Sharknose" - CLICK ON IMAGE TO SPECIFY SPECIAL PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS
RR-30 : BALDWIN RF-16 "SHARKNOSE" CAB $50.00
B-UNIT "SHARKNOSE" BALDWIN RF-16 RR-31 : $35.00
A&B UNITS BALDWIN RF-16 "SHARKNOSE" R-32 : $75.00
A-B-A UNITS BALDWIN RF-16 "SHARKNOSE" R-33 : $125.00
BLW RF-16 A&B "SHARKNOSE"
LINK TO HANDRAIL PURCHASE PAGE
THOM WELSCH
THOM WELSCH
THOM WELSCH SAYS .... "The A and B unit are both mounted on MTL GP chassis. I put an AZL coupler in the nose of the A unit and the rear coupler is the truck-mounted MTL coupler. The B unit still has the MTL couplers mounted to both trucks. I'm considering close-coupling the 2 units but haven't decided how I want to attempt it. I purchased the A and B units of the Shark-nose shells, also the RS shell. I plan to work on that shell once the handrails are done.
I used "Apple Barrel Colors" Cobalt Blue acrylic paint straight from the bottle brushed on. I didn't use any primer...just a little clean up and washing before painting. I did need to machine out the extra material from inside the shell to lower them even after removing the light board and mounting tabs from the MTL chassis. I sanded down the MTL fuel tanks to make them flat and painted them the same color as the body. The decals are designed and printed by me on my ALPS printer.
I removed the lightboard and lightboard lugs from the MTL GP chassis and replaced the springs with a little bead of solder between the motor lug and chassis half. The AZL coupler on the front of the A unit is just slid in place as it will be mostly used for looks only. I cut the coupler box off of the front truck to accommodate the AZL coupler. After a little clean up and washing, I painted the clear shells with "Apple Barrel Colors" Cobalt Blue acrylic paint. I always brush-paint my models. I didn't use any primer but I did paint the inside of the shell with black paint...except where the windows are. ..."
DAN STIRPE SAYS ...
CLOSE COUPLING
"...Close coupling MT loco trucks is easy. Just take out the screws that hold the couplers in, cut and drill a short piece of styrene and fasten it where the couplers used to be. I keep a couple of spare sets of truck sideframes..."
CONTINUOUS LIGHTING
"... In order for it to run without the lighting board, I had to bend the motor contacts so that they pressed against the chassis halves. That way, it doesn't need the board or springs. I don't have the board for that one, anyway, so the clips being gone won't make any difference..."
